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Freud 1/8" Radius Canoe Joint Bit with 1/2" Shank (99-018)

  • Freud 1/8" Radius Canoe Joint Bit with 1/2" Shank (99-018)

Freud 1/8" Radius Canoe Joint Bit with 1/2" Shank (99-018)

₪ 564.00 ₪ 339.00 Save: ₪ 225.00
₪ 339.00 ₪ 564.00 You save: ₪ 225.00



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Delivery Time: 15-20 days
Delivery Time: 15-20 days

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  • 14 Days Return

  • Made in Italy
  • Package Dimensions : 1.25 L x 1.25 H x 1.25 W (inches)
  • Package Weight : 1.0 pounds
  • Cuts all composition materials, plywood's, hardwoods, and softwoods
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Customer Reviews

Cuts well. A fine product. The only complaint I have is that the bits were difficult to remove from the plastic case, being stuck on the rubber inserts in the case. The biggest issue was making sure not to cut myself on the sharp edges. It seems there was some sort of coating, perhaps anti corrosion, on the shafts which had hardened. Cleaned with bit of solvent and all is well. Be sure to set the speed of your router for the size of the bits and pay attention to how deeply these can cut. Ah, yes, the specs say the depth of cut is 7/16 but I found it to be much closer to 1/2 inch. But, with a fence adjustment, not relying on the bearing for depth, you can achieve any lesser depth you choose. 5Definitely not the quality I've come to expect from Freud! This is the first time I've ever given an unfavorable product review, but I feel compelled to speak.I've always loved Freud products for their quality and the thought put into their design. As such, I find it hard to believe that this bit set was made by them. Oh, the bit quality is fine, but the adjustment functionality just flat sucks. Each bit comes with a set of spacers, of varying thicknesses (11 spacers for the tongue bit and 9 for the groove bit.) None of them are marked! You can differentiate the extreme ends but the spacers of similar thicknesses cannot be told apart without mechanical assistance. (I ended up having to buy a Mitutoyo outside micrometer to do the job. Great mic BTW, see my review for it on it's own page.) Further, once mic'ed, I find that the spacers don't even match those (presumably) indicated on the sketchy sizing chart which accompanies the bits. They don't even match each other! (That is to say, the set with the tongue bit does not duplicate the set with the groove bit.)If you only rarely have to adjust the bit spacing (i.e ALL your tongue & groove cuts will be 1/2") or you like having to fiddle with something before getting it right, then this bit set will work fine for you. Otherwise, be prepared for a major disappointment! 2These are the bits you are looking for This is a very nice router bit set, and will let you do some very nice shaker doors. It comes with sufficient shims to setup and build great joints. Note, it does NOT come "dialed" in already, you will need to adjust the shims on one or the other to get it working right.As always with these types of bits, when doing the rail ends, you need to watch for chip out. I recommend routing a backer that you will use behind the piece as you move it through the router, to prevent the chip out. 5Another excellent Freud product This is the 3rd Freud Rail/Stile bit set in my collection, and it is just a EXCELLENT as all the others!I have created at least 100 doors with my tongue & groove set 99-036Freud Adjustable Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set with 1-3/4" Diameter, " Shank (99-036)Setup - a little research led me to set the cope bit to create about a 1/4 backside rabbet (3/4 material) . That setting then established the height for the other groove cutting bit.A little bit of testing to dial in the match - taking a precise height measurement for future reference, and those final test pieces become my setup jigs for the next project.I've now created 7 frame panel doors in maple, and found the cuts to be beautifully precise and clean (of course the bits are nice and sharp & *clean*), and I expect to make many many more for years to come. 5Wish I had bought them sooner This bit set is worth the extra money it cost. Most T&G bit sets limit you to a 1/4" panel. This set lets you use up to a 3/8" panel because the groove cutter has a two piece cutter that will expand using the included shims. Cut very sharp edges and cut as fast as I could feed the wood. When switching from groove to tongue you do have to reset your router height. The shaft lengths are not calibrated to just replace one bit with the other. That may be a blessing in disguise because it makes you dial in the router height and gives you the opportunity to get it perfect using test cuts in a scrap. When end grain cutting the tongues be sure you back up your piece with a piece of scrap or they will tear out as the bit exits the wood and live a tiny divot on the face of shoulder as the work piece slides off the bearing. Only had this issue when cutting tongues and only when I did not use a back up piece. 5I must be some sort of router genius 'cause this thing is so easy to dial in! Cuts like a hot knife through butter!Got one of these puppies when I was the Cabinet Shop Foreman in the local rat race and loved it. To the betterment of my own sanity I got out and as soon as I found myself with a stack of maple with which I was to fashion a boat load of drawers I opened up the amazon and grabbed it!Pros:-Easy to set up, just grab a few scraps of the same thickness as your drawer sides and adjust the depth on a pair of fresh edges until you've got a tight fit I usually get it by the second or third try. Fence adjustment is easier and less critical on the drawer front, imho-Cuts great! Use a backer board on your mitre guide to reduce blowout, and avoid knots and using ply or silica laden woods and it will stay sharp for an age as well-Nice thick carbide that can be reground again and again (use only the best sharpening services available!)Cons:-Some of the paint chipped, and in another area it was all gooped up-The damned rings on my router insert are either too small or too big and I'm beginning to feel a lot like Goldilocks 5The best shaker set Ive ever used I originally was using my MLCS set to make some shaker furniture, but I could tell that they needed to be replaced because the wood was starting to burn and the cut quality was getting really bad. I decided to purchase this Freud set for a project that I am doing because the panels are going to be just flat maple 1/4" plywood and this set is supposedly adjustable. When i first opened the set I was impressed how well they come packaged in the Freud container. Also, these bits are very thick and heavy. They seem to be almost twice the size of my MLCS shaker set. Adjusting these is extremely easy to do even though there is no instructions. I basically took every washer out from both and I can now use them for plywood panels. I really couldn't be any happier with the quality of cut. There is hardly any chatter marks on the wood and the rails and stiles join perfectly. I liked my MLCS set very much and got great use out of it, but this set is in another league when it comes to build and cut quality. 5Freud lock bit If you are a wood worker who will constantly reach for this bit for your projects, and can set up complicated bits in a few minutes, I say go for it.But if you are like me, who is not a professional woodworker, I say explore other options for your joinery.There was no instructions with this bit, so Google it.It took me forever to set it up. I recommend buying bits that come with set up blocks, or make your own once you figure out how it works.On the box it said the total height of cut was 13/64. I think that is wrong. The preferred thickness of your work piece should be 1/2" or above. You can't use it for thinner woods.At the beginning the cutting edges of the bit felt very sharp. after an hour of set up, it didn't feel as sharp and it left burn marks on the wood.You can get your side pieces in one pass, but you need several passes for the front piece, so it is time consuming.I was able to get the joints to line up perfectly, but the two pieces don't really lock like rabbet joint. (So why call it lock bit?!)Bottom line: if you are a woodworker who needs this bit all the time, go for it. You can make clean joints with this bit and some nail and glue. If you are buying this for just a small project, I say explore other options. 4This worked great on finger jointed primed pine 1x4s I used the sh*t ouf of this thing and it stayed sharp beginning to end. All in all I did about 70 or 80 ft of wainscoting. That's a lot of use! This worked great on finger jointed primed pine 1x4s. The 3/4" thickness is a bit thicker than they recommend but it still turns out great. The added thickness makes it so that you can't take the full depth cut in one pass or it will leave a groove in the side of the wood instead of a the profiled shape on the edge aka the bit isn't tall enough. To overcome this you just have to put a piece of cardboard on the router table, run the piece, flip the cardboard out of the way and run the piece again. I achieved the best results by running it by a third time pretty slow to get it nice and smooth. With a helping hand I did 12ft 1x8s this way for baseboard at the bottom of the wainscoting. Takes a bit of fiddling to get the height set correctly so they mate up exactly smooth but once set you're good to go. Check out my pictures to see. Really happy with how it turned out. 5Great bit combo set, highly adjustable. I hesitated at the price of this as a novice woodworker, but after spending a lot of time testing the range of what this kit can do, I'm really glad I got it. The design of this is very easy to work with. I would have spent hours in setup and testing to emulate a similar final product with individual bits, not to mention drop similar money doing so. The slot cutters can be finely tuned with included spacers/washers to exactly fit whatever your panel will be. You can adjust the profile so you get more of the beveled face, or less if you want more support for a glass window or solid hardwood panel. I ended up getting the optional cutter for glass panels as well, but you could emulate it with a straight bit if you wanted to. This just saves you time. Honestly if you're debating your own cabinet doors, don't hesitate to get this. After a quick dry run with scrap wood, you'll be churning out rail&stile doors in no time, and be proud of the outcome.A quick hint for other beginners: take the time to pay attention to depth of cut. You'll spin this at a slower speed than many bits, so you'll get the best results with a couple passes rather than routing the whole profile at once. A good 2.25hp or better router recommended for dense hardwoods. Just take your time, test it first and zero in on the best feed rate. Featherboards also highly recommended to keep accuracy on point. 5
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